We arrived in Picton on the Interislander after an early, bleary start from Wellington — straight into a very wet South Island welcome. Shakespeare Bay and Queen Charlotte Sound were moody and misty, and the drive along Queen Charlotte Drive to Ngakuta Bay and Havelock was long, winding and dripping. Havelock’s famous green mussels warmed us up — fresh from the sea, explained enthusiastically by a lady from Auckland — and the museum opposite told us more about mussels than we ever expected to know.

The rain followed us all the way to Nelson, where we camped in a town‑centre site over a little bridge with a calming stream. The WOW Museum was a revelation: classic cars, outrageous costumes, and creations with names like Lord Maharajah and the Star Bride, Goodbye Versailles, and the unforgettable Ishmaelian Wingflapper. As the saying goes, “WOW makes Lady Gaga look like a librarian.” The bras alone were a spectacle. The cars ranged from Minis and Locomobiles to Vauxhall Vivas and a Shaguar. 

The rain followed us all the way to Nelson, where we camped in a town‑centre site over a little bridge with a calming stream. The WOW Museum was a revelation: classic cars, outrageous costumes, and creations with names like Lord Maharajah and the Star Bride, Goodbye Versailles, and the unforgettable Ishmaelian Wingflapper. As the saying goes, “WOW makes Lady Gaga look like a librarian.” The bras alone were a spectacle. The cars ranged from Minis and Locomobiles to Vauxhall Vivas and a Shaguar.

We wandered Tahunanui Beach Reserve, boardwalks, winery country, pear and apple orchards, then headed to Kaiteriteri for sunsets, Wilsons ferries, and a memorable evening at the Beached Whale pub — fire roaring, a singing barman, and rugby on TV (Christchurch vs Wellington). Abel Tasman National Park gave us golden beaches and turquoise water, though it also gave us the man who emptied his loo in the water area and covered it with leaves (still yuk). Our boat trip took us to Totaranui, Awaroa, Medlands, Tonga Quarry, Torrent Bay and Bark Bay — picnics, coffee, wind, sun, fur seals, Adele Island, kayakers, solar panels, and shifting tides.

Motueka River and Kahurangi National Park brought low cloud, hop fields, Tapawera, old police stations, a wooden cow, and eels. Lake Rotoiti gave us Mr Angry and his boat, St Arnaud, Lake Rotoroa, wet feet, red toadstools, and autumn colours. We followed the Buller River through Murchison’s heritage area, filled up with fuel, crossed the Buller Gorge swing bridge, and walked through waterfalls, earthquake zones (1929 and 2010), and the White Creek peninsula. Wagtails, Wekas, bushline walks, Ariki Falls, and logging trucks filled the day. Springs Junction meant pie lunch, then Lewis Pass, the Waiau River, and the Kaikōura Ranges.

With SH1 closed from the 2016 earthquake, we took Highway 70 via Rotherham and Waiau to Kaikōura. Our campsite sat under snow‑covered mountains. We had fish and chips in town — sadly not from the best shop (Tiki Takeaways) which was closed — then wandered Fyffe Quay, the old chimney remains, the boardwalk, The Point, and the seal colony. Seals slept on the rocks and even on the boardwalk. The smell was… memorable. The road back was lined with slips and detours. Woodchester gave us Monet‑like autumn views and a man with coffee. Eventually we rejoined SH2 and reached Christchurch.

At the Britz office we sorted extra bedding and C&A had their van fixed (brakes and a headlamp). Ours needed only an internal light. The Christchurch Top 10 was full of school groups and rain. We took the blue route bus into town: Ballantynes, the devastation, the cathedral ruins, Customs House, the Chalice sculpture, vintage trams, New Regent Street, murals, Container City, the Quake Museum, and that unmistakable Kiwi humour in the face of adversity. Colombo Street, a Mexican restaurant, workmen everywhere, and more rain. We even managed to lose each other on the ring road around the airport.

From there we headed west: Sheffield pies, Lake Lyndon, Castle Hill, snow, mountains, SH73, Kumara Junction, the Great Alpine Way, Grasmere, Lake Pearson, farming flats, Cass Lagoon Track, Otira Gorge, the viaduct, Jackson Tavern, Arthur’s Pass, the national park, the Waimakariri River, the TranzAlpine line, Bridal Veil Falls, the visitor centre, Cobb & Co stagecoach history, Devil’s Punchbowl Bridge, and Kumara gold town.

Hokitika brought the Tasman Sea, old town charm, glow worms, and rainbows. Ross gave us gold‑mining history, a gaol, heritage walks, Chinese influence, Jones Flats, a museum, De Bakker Cottage, and the story of Philip Ross May. Autumn colours, mine shafts, a Catholic church, and mining memorabilia filled the day. Hari Hari celebrated Guy Menzies, the first solo flight from Australia to NZ. We lunched by the Whataroa River, passed glacier‑flight signs, and drove the Glacier Highway in the rain. Franz Josef was a wet walk to a receding glacier (knees complaining). Lake Ianthe, Fox Glacier, Blue Lake, moraine fields, and the Haast Valley followed.

Bruce Bay offered stones for messages; Lake Matheson gave us reflections and coffee; Knights Point gave us whale sightings — a mother and calf. Fox Glacier village, Pollux Point peaks, Haast village, eerie sunset colours, and a power‑less pitch at the Haast Top 10 (we had to move). We drove the Haast–Jackson Bay road: Oturu, fan tails, whitebait, lobsters, bridges, Neils Beach, shearwaters, Hannahs Crossing, Jackson Bay’s dodgy wharf, the visitor centre, whalers’ chimney remains, and another whale sighting (Annie’s this time). The fishing community felt like the edge of the world.

Back through Haast (fuel station out), over Haast Pass, Cameron Flat, lunch under snowy peaks, Mount Brewster, Mount Aspiring, Lake Wānaka, The Neck, Lake Hawea, Boundary Creek, Makarora, Albert Town, and Wānaka again — cold nights, shoreline walks, Luggate’s old cars and town hall, vineyards, Lake Dunstan, the 45th parallel, Lowburn, mountain reflections, seed pods, the Remarkables, Cromwell old town, printing presses, horses, paua art, fruit stalls, sunshine.

Goldfields, Kawarau Gorge, Roaring Meg, hydro power, AJ Hackett’s bungy bridge, warm outdoor fires, Shotover Gorge, and Queenstown’s campsite by Lake Wakatipu — rainbows, snow, and mountain drama. South to Lumsden, Kingston’s old railway bridge, Garston, Mossburn, stock crossings, and Te Anau — the picture drome, library, coffee, float planes, the Kepler Track, and a layby full of naughty kea pulling at car trims.

The Homer Tunnel led us through waterfalls and slips to Milford Sound — the lodge, the village, the cruise terminal, and our nature cruise on the Milford Mariner. Fur seals, herons, Mitre Peak, the Footstool, Sindbad Gully, low clouds, icy winds, and the sense of being in one of the world’s true wonders. We loved doing it with pals. The return gave us the Tutoko suspension bridge, the Hollyford River, The Chasm, more kea, and Mirror Lakes with perfect reflections.

Back to Te Anau — past the pitch where we camped in 2008 — then Mossburn (deer capital), red tussock, Lumsden, Gore’s clock tower and gallery, and Balclutha for a superb fish‑and‑chip lunch. The Southern Scenic Highway carried us to Dunedin and the Otago Peninsula: Taiaroa Head, the Royal Albatross Centre, Prince Charles’ visit, Pilot’s Beach, blue penguins, Portobello, Company Bay, Broad Bay, Wycliffe Bay, Hooper Inlet, Sandfly Bay, Cape Saunders, Dick Road, Allan Beach, sheep branding, flotsam, flowers, and the dramatic Highcliff Road.

Dunedin gave us Signal Hill, the university oval, Baldwin Street (steepest in the world — and yes, you have the T‑shirt), the station lit up at night, and a spectacular night drive back around the peninsula. Vogel Street murals, Blueskin Road, the 19 Fathoms Foul memorial, the Robert Falcon Scott memorial, Blueskin Bay, quarantine islands, Waikouaiti, Karitane, Seacliff lookout, pies in Waikouaiti, Bushy Beach’s yellow‑eyed penguins, and Oamaru’s Victorian precinct — jetty, Friendly Bay, farmers market, grain stores, brewery, distillery, station, picture frame, and glorious steampunk.

Rakaia (salmon capital), Banks Peninsula, the Hilltop, and Akaroa — French charm, jetties, cinema, passport office, Monet vibes, roses, cats, Barry’s Bay, Little River, silo stays, rain over the hills, Gebbies Pass, Dyers Pass, Sugarloaf Reserve, Riccarton, and the Apollo Motel (Room 11). Our last supper at Lone Star, an early rise, a lovely family farewell, and then the airport: Singapore for us, Hong Kong for C&A. Tears, coffee at Sydney Airport, and the end of a magnificent South Island odyssey.A journey of mountains, seas, wildlife, weather, friends, mishaps, magic — and nearly two hours of video to prove it.